South-Western Sardinia

Duration: 1 week
Distance : 140 miles

An easy and very charming itinerary characterised by wonderful nature, along the wildest coast of Sardinia. It is highly recommended to those looking for a quiet holiday: sleeping in roadsteds, enjoying morning swims and incredibly tasty dinners in the evenings. There is a very wide choice available as far as local specialities are concerned - from one of the many restaurants along Carloforte’s seafront, offering typical dishes with tuna fish and the famous Cascà (couscous), to several holiday farms on the Teulada mountains.
 

Cala Cipolla  Porto Tramatzu Porto Pino Pan di Zucchero - Masua

The noise of the town vanishes in a few minutes: your full immersion in nature has started. A cruise along the south-western coast of Sardinia – even outside the summer season – can offer true emotions, a feeling of completeness, of being pioneers and discovering a still little-known area constantly swept by the north-westerly wind, but also featuring natural and artificial bays and shelters for less adventurous sailors. Thanks to CSC’s premises, located both in Cagliari  and in Carloforte, you can choose where you are going to sail from; if feasible depending on the reservations received, the one-way formula is also available, with a transfer back to the starting point by private bus. 

South-western itinerary

Cagliari – Nora: the latter is the natural bend of the Pula beach, with the Phoenician, and then Punic and Roman, settlement, that can be reached on a tender (to take a tour and learn more, please see http://www.sardegnacultura.it/). Spending the night at anchor is also possible (the sea bottom is approximately 4 metres deep) and definitely worth it. CSC’s suggestion: Perd’e Sali is currently sanded up, access is not possible even to First 31.7, nor to catamarans.

Nora – Chia: the famous sand dunes - deserted and dazzling - are in sharp contrast with the turquoise sea and the deep green of junipers. Here starts the most breathtaking and pristine part of the southern coast. It is possible to cast anchor in Cala Morto and to the west of the Su Giudeu rocks.  CSC’s  suggestion: the small intermediate landing site of Calaverde has a maximum draught of 1.80 metres.

Chia – Teulada: just a glance at Cala Cipolla (draught: 4 metres) is enough to see the imposing promontory of Capo Spartivento, which – as the name explains (‘spartivento’ literally means ‘wind-splitting’) - protects the whole area from the winds; the cape slopes down into the wonderful Tuerredda. In front of the wonderful beach surrounded by greenery rises the small island of the same name, separated from the coast by a very shallows isthmus - the ideal location to cast anchor, even at night. From Tuerredda you can then smoothly sail to Porto Malfatano (pay attention to some shallow stretches) and to the new marina in Teulada, in the Gulf of Teulada, fitted with all possible comforts. The town of Teulada is quite far (6 km), but available services include a private transfer to the holiday farm Matteu, nestled in the mountains behind this area, which offers a magnificent view onto the gulf and delicious dinners with typical products and recipes.

Teulada – Porto Pino: after sailing past Capo Malfatano (and reefing the mainsail in case of north-westerly wind), you will reach the military area, where drills are often held during the winter (before departure, make sure you contact the Harbour Office in Sant’Antioco) and landing is not permitted. It is however possible to bathe in the pristine, crystal-clear, aquamarine sea; Porto Zafferano really looks like a postcard and is the last stage along the southern coast: indeed, after Capo Teulada you are already sailing along Eastern Sardinia. Before sailing on to the smaller islands, it is worth stopping over in Porto Pino, even at night, and enjoy the view of its dunes crowned by Aleppo pine trees. After rounding the shoal of Cala Piombo you can cast anchor at a depth of 4-6 metres.

Porto Pino – Sant’Antioco: although Sant’Antioco is not as well known among tourists as Carloforte, it is undoubtedly worth a visit. After sailing past the Gulf of Palmas, after Capo Sperone (the southernmost point of the island of Sant’Antioco, which is in fact connected to the main land by a large isthmus on which cars can drive both ways), sail north along the eastern coast towards Porto Romano - unless the weather is so good as to tempt you to divert southwards towards the small islands Vacca and Toro for a quick swim. In the opposite direction, on the northern tip of Sant’Antioco, rises the town of Calasetta, with a small equipped marina.

Sant’Antioco – Carloforte: from Sant’Antioco you can sail to the island of San Pietro and its only town, Carloforte, in just a few minutes; San Pietro is the  perfect starting point for a wonderful daily cruise

Carloforte – Buggerru: 18 miles: after fuelling at the fishermen’s cove (pay attention when entering it and make sure you sail in the centre, as the breakwater is lower at the sides), you will sail towards the eastern coast – rocky, imposing, and boasting a long history. After the long beach of Funtanamare you will reach the cliff of Nebida, where Porto Flavia is snugly nestled: it was the accessway to the coal mines that were still active in the early 20th century. Sailing, then, will continue smoothly towards the Pan di Zucchero, a series of cliffs that you can cruise through on a tender while leaving your sailing boat at anchor light-heartedly (the bottom is sandy and very deep). You can then spend the night in the wonderful fiord of Cala Domestica, perfectly protected from the north-westerly wind. You can also choose from a very wide range of possible excursions on land (see “Useful links” below). CSC’s suggestion: the port of Buggerru is currently sanded up; before departure, check the weather forecast, to make sure you do not get stuck halfway through your leg. In case of north-westerly wind, sailing is recommended to very experienced crews only. The closest havens are the fiord of Cala Domestica, and the marina in Tharros, which is however 33 miles away. 

Weather

The climate is typically Mediterranean, rain is not frequent and mainly limited to the winter season. The almost constant north-westerly wind keeps temperatures cool, while the equally frequent warm current blows along the entire itinerary from late in the morning until the afternoon.

Privates Marina

-    Marina di Teulada +39 070 9283705 www.teuladamarina.it, VHF channels 9 and 16 (emergency only)
-    Porto Romano Sant’Antioco +39 0781.83071, VHF channels 12 and 71
-    Porticciolo Calasetta +39 0781 88083  www.portocalasetta.it, VHF channel 74

Fuel stations

-    Cagliari: Barbini c/o western pier +39 340 3351865
-    Porto Romano Sant’Antioco / Banchina di Levante - Mario Garau +39 349.0658363 / 349.5556032
-    Calasetta

Restaurants

-    Ristorante Su Cumbidu – Cagliari +39 347 803 2771
-    Ristorante Pizzeria L’Oca Bianca – Cagliari +39 70 664339
-    Ristorante Su Furriadroxu - Pula +39 070 924 6148, www.sufurriadroxu.it
-    Agriturismo Matteu - Teulada +39 070 9270003; +39 348 5279210

Useful links

Nora archaeological site +39 070 921470/92440304

Parco Geominerario della Sardegna (Sardinia Geo-mining park)  www.parcogeominerario.eu
Henry Gallery
Is Zuddas Caves www.grotteiszuddas.com
Sulcis Iglesiente Local Tourist Centre www.sulcisiglesiente.eu
Villa Sulcis archaeological museum www.meditinera.it
Mount Sirai archaeological site www.meditinera.it

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